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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred names. However, situated near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

The little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. The accolade has left the family totally astonished.

“I’m utterly astonished,” states a family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble restaurant securing such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its original feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this gastronomic honour.